Our Process
A few of the most common questions we get are--
How does the raw fiber become a finished garment -- and why does it cost so much?
These two questions work well together as I find the answer to the first helps one understand the second.
First and foremost, alpacas are shorn annually. Unlike most flower and veggie crops, where the more you cut the more they produce, this is not the case with alpaca fiber (or most natural fibers at that rate). This means the herd must be fed and watered 24/7/365 before it produces even one ounce of fiber.
We shear in early spring as summers are quite hot, and even spring days can get warm. A spring shearing means the herd is comfortable during the hottest time of the year. It also means we are able to get our fiber shipped off to various fiber mills for processing.
Shearing is a relatively painless process for the alpaca, but a long day's work for us. Each alpaca is carefully restrained and their fiber is skillfully shorn off by the fierce woman-owned Moonrise Alpaca Shearing crew, using electric shears. It is shorn off in three distinct 'cuts'.
The first is the prized 'blanket' or 'prime' cut, which is essentially the area of the saddle/back region. This cutting is the best as it is generally the most uniform in terms of fineness and length, two critical elements for yarn and garment processing. Our average prime cut per alpaca is approximately 3 pounds. Overall, 3lbs is not a lot when you also consider you only get one cutting a year. Fortunately with alpaca fiber, a little goes a long way as our hats generally weigh less than 3 ounces. Warmth without the bulk!
The next cut is called the 'seconds' and that is comprised of the neck fiber and part of the britch (top back legs). This fiber is used for either rug yarn, or for our new upcoming line of pillows.
The final cut is called the 'thirds' and that is the belly, top of tail and all around 'clean up' for a nice appearance. We use the thirds for various crafts like inside our gourd bird nests, to store our dahlia tubers at Gholson Gardens, and as a filler in our compost.
Each cutting is separately bagged and weighed. We then take the prime cut from each alpaca and carefully evaluate and skirt it. Skirting is the processing of removing any excess debris, like hay and grass, along with portions of fiber that are not uniform in fineness and length. Each fleece is evaluated by hand to determine the best use. Not every prime cut is destined to become yarn or a finished garment. We use artisan fiber mills that allow us to process in small batches. Even though they use large commercial and industrial equipment, it is still a very hands-on, time & labor intensive process. As a result, the cost to process is done by incoming weight and, when considering shipping and handling, averages about $50/lb. Additionally, during the milling process, approximately 20-30% of loss is common.
Once the finished products (skeins of yarn or machine knit garments) are shipped back to the farm, I carefully hand dye each in small batches using the dye plants and flowers that I also grew during the summer. Since most of the dye plants used are annuals, that means I started the seeds in late winter or early spring, carefully tending to them before transplanting out. And while the growing season is underway, I regularly harvest flowers and store (freeze or dry) for use once the fiber is back.
As you can hopefully see, bringing the fiber to finished garment is not an overnight affair. It is a multi-year process that involves several other US small businesses. The garments we offer are the finest fiber from our herd, produced humanely and ethically, using plant based dyes. They aren't comprised of synthetic fibers made overseas in questionable circumstances. They're not single season hats or one time wear scarves. Instead, they're comfortable, luxurious, staple and heirloom pieces for your wardrobe, that will last a lifetime. And best of all, they're 100% made in the USA.
Thank you for supporting American agriculture and manufacturing!